With Anika half the enjoyment is just pouring it into a glass. Look at that color. Bringing it to your nose doubles the intoxicating effect, which is now all about cracked black pepper, candied pork belly, tapenade and berry confection dialed up a notch by the freshness of carbonic maceration. One of the most drinkable, rewarding and varietally correct examples around, Anika signals with élan what historic, old-vine Bien Nacido Syrah can do in a resurgent sans soufre style. It is a wine of poles — of savory and juiciness, tension and joy — in harmony.